A night of mixed emotions...

By now you have gathered that the sights, sounds, and smells of Mumbai are often overwhelming and unpleasant. But Mumbai by moonlight is even more disheartening. You pass through slums which are the equivalent of tarps covering portions of sidewalk a family has claimed as their own in a society where space is limited and proper homes coveted. It is not an uncommon sight to see small, half clothed children curled up in the mother's lap underneath a busy highway overpass. They don't even know better, and have no idea that they've lost their dignity, since they never had it. I complain about my rock hard mattress... they spread newspaper down on the sidewalk and sleep peacefully at the edge of uncoming chaotic traffic.

But tonight, I experienced the violent side of Mumbai. I was on my way to a restaurant in Bandra in search of some edible food that my digestive system would allow (I have the digestive system of a skeleton). I was on the main road, right here in Matunga, Napuu and we witnessed a fist fight. This fist fight ended with a man being pushed to the ground, in front of traffic. Luckily traffic stopped in time for his life to be spared, but the conflict was not over. There was some sort of disagreement between a taxi driver and this same, fallen man. The taxi started to drive off as the man got up to his feet. He grabbed on to the side of the taxi, as the taxi sped off. It was the most horrific sight as this man was dragged by the taxi for fifty yards. Finally the man could hold on no longer and dropped to the ground. Once again, luckily traffic stopped in time... we think. He was lifeless on the ground, but after a few moments sat up with the help of some onlookers. But we did not see him move his legs. The worst part of this whole ordeal, which left me feeling ill in a way not caused by bad food, was no one reacted. No one ran up to this man, shocked and horrified the way that I was. They just leisurely walked up and watched. Is it that Mumbai is too crowded, a single life has lost its value?

Needless to say, this was an unpleasant trip off to Bandra, and the taxi ride void of any conversation. Our taxi then got a flat tire, so we had to find another cab in the midst of a busy intersection. Every time I cross the road here, I feel as if I am taking my own life in my hands and just pray to make it to the other side. Because of the chaos, you often have to stop in the middle to wait for the other side to stop. The feeling of cars coming within inches of you on both sides is unsettling to say the least.

We made it to the restaurant. I was quiet all through dinner, but despite the events earlier in the evening I had a very pleasant meal. It was a Far Eastern restaurant, but had a very well rounded menu. A really fun atmosphere with the bathrooms located in giant wooden eggs (pictures to come). I had a wonderful appetizer of asparagus wrapped in wonton dough and drizzled with a creamy lemon cheese sauce, and for my main course a zuchinni and parmesan encrusted chicken with rice pilaf and vegetables. Dinner was great.... but didn't last long :-/

I'm hoping to quiet my mind now, and get the ugly image of Mumbai that was burned into my head tonight out of my mind. I have an early morning to head to Sanjay Gandhi National Park tomorrow for some cave exploring and safaring.